Author: auralynne

Corsets 101 Part 1: History

If you were born in the Victorian Era, you would most likely be wearing a corset right now! Most girls started wearing them in their young teens in those days. Victorian times were the heyday of corsets, but to search out their origins, we must go further back in time – to the late Renaissance.

So imagine with me a setting a bit like your local Ren Fest (but less fairies, more unpleasant smells… ok let’s not imagine the smells!) and travel to the French Court. Corsets as we know them today got a big push to fame because of Catherine De Medici.

A Portrait of Catherine De Medici

 

She’s on my “historical figures that would be fun to cosplay” list because she was kind of a badass (and possibly evil too.) One of the weirder things she did in her lifetime was to put a ban on “thick waists” at court. And a trend took hold.

In the early days, corsets looked like this:

18th Century Corset

They attempted to give you a torso shaped like an ice cream cone! The illusion was furthered by the style of the dresses women wore. They changed over the years, but they always featured a rather stylized figure. Here’s a gorgeous example from 1770:

Robe à l'Anglaise in Silk Damask

The corset as we know it today came into being during the Victorian era. They had been using the corset for hundreds of years as a foundation garment to help dresses fit and look a certain way. So when the style evolved to have a small nipped waist, and tons of voluminous petticoats, corsets got nice and curvy to help the silhouette.

The Victorian corset started out short and curvy – but when the skirts got more form fitting in the 1880’s, it extended down to shape and smooth the hips and abdomen. My designs are mostly inspired by the 1880s. I absolutely love the silhouette in those days!

In the 1890s (Edwardian era), they made corsets with straight fronts and backs shaped in a way that forced your chest out and your hips back. It made the gowns look so elegant – but it made the corsets rather uncomfortable for your back.

As modern feminists, we would like to think that one day, we decided to be liberated women, and spontaneously burned all our corsets and switched to wearing only practical clothing. But it didn’t quite happen that way! The thing that really made us stop wearing corsets was World War 1. They needed more steel to make weapons/ammunition. So women helped the war effort by giving up their steel boned corsets. We still wore shapewear – like girdles, and lighter elastic corsets for decades after that.

In the 60’s – a slim athletic figure came into style. So exercise replaced shapewear for attaining an ideal figure. And for a long while, corsets were a rare item for those not into historical reenactment or the fetish scene.

Now the corset has come back into fashion – as something we wear for fun! And I’m glad that they have. I’m a mother of two who hates to exercise – so as you can probably imagine, I don’t have an ideal figure according to modern standards! But oh, do I love how I look when I wear a corset. ^.^

If you are curious to learn more about the history of corsets, may I recommend this book:

I purchased and read it before writing this post to be sure I was dotting my i’s and crossing my ts correctly!  But it turned out to be a fascinating read with lots of interesting pictures.  (The above image is an affiliate link – if you purchase with the link Amazon will pay me a small commission on the sale.  I’ve found some awesomely recommendable things on Amazon over the years – and it seemed that the easiest way to share their images in my blog was to sign up for the affiliate program!  So that’s what I did.  ^.^)

Coming next week – Corsets 101 Part 2: Corset types!

The Ultimate Guide to Corsets

What is a corset? Nowadays the word refers to a whole bunch of things – including girdles (Corset purists feel free to gasp and look offended with me!) and bustiers. When I talk corsets, I mean “real” corsets, or the historical definition of a corset:

Corset (noun): a close-fitting undergarment, stiffened with whalebone or similar material and often capable of being tightened by lacing, enclosing the trunk: worn, especially by women, to shape and support the body; stays.

I’m writing a series of posts on corsets. I have rather a lot to share on the subject! Lol I come from a making-ball-gowns-out-of-curtains type background – so my first experience with corsets came from spending a VERY long time drooling over them, dreaming of owning one, researching how I could make one without being able to afford the proper boning and fabric, and attempting to (multiple times) from the wrong materials!

A custom made wedding corset
I’ve made lots of corset-ish things – but this is one of the only true corsets that I’ve made myself. For a friend’s custom designed wedding dress!

Now with what I do for a living, I wear at least 20 new corsets each year for photoshoots! And despite getting to lace up so regularly into all the new pretties, I don’t think my obsession has died. I LOVE corsets.

This is going to be an 8 part series. When I post each new part, I’ll come back here and update the link!

The Ultimate Guide to Corsets
This pic features just a few of the corsets that I wore last year for photos.

And here are the parts!

Part 1: History of Corsetry

Part 2: Types of Corsets

Part 3: Real Corset Styles

Part 4: Anatomy of a Corset

Part 5: Pattern Matters

Part 6: Find your Perfect Corset Size

Part 7: Wear a Corset Comfortably

Part 8: How to Care for your Corset

Steampunk Pirate Costume – Airship Minx

I made a Steampunk pirate costume!Steampunk Pirate Costume

My “belladonna” skirt is I believe the #1 skirt I make which makes me think of pirates.  So it’s the one I wore here.

Steampunk Pirate Costume

The sleeves are completely one-of-a-kind.  Each time I design and make something new, it gets a “cuteness to cost ratio” based on how long it takes to make it, vs how cute it looks!  Lol these turned out cute, but waaaay too time consuming, so I will not make them again.  Instead I’m working on a new similar design that is both cuter, more flattering, and takes less time to make, so I’m able to offer a better price.  ^.^Steampunk Pirate Costume

Steampunk Pirate Costume

The pirate hat in the photos is also a handmade creation.  I’ll hopefully get a few made and posted in my etsy shop soon!

Steampunk Pirate Costume Steampunk Pirate Costume

I made just a couple of these and sold some over Halloween – but I still have a couple left, and the costume can also be custom ordered.  It’s available here.

Steampunk Pirate Costume

Jewelry by my sister, Vixen’s Delight.

Announcement – Black Friday Sale

This past weekend I did my after-Halloween overhaul.  This is a several day process – where I put on an awesome audiobook, and spend some time buried up to my nose in lace and pretty fabrics – cleaning and organizing.

This year, while at it, I realized something.  Holy crap, did I make a lot of pretty things this year!  And I have a lot of pretty ideas that I still have yet to make.  Which means I need more space in my stock closet!

So… Drumroll please… I’m having a sale!

I’m putting nearly a third of my shop on 40% off!  If you’ve been eyeing one of the samples I make for photoshoots (and it hasn’t sold yet) here’s your chance to get it at an amazing discount.  You can see my size Small photoshoot samples here, and my Medium and Large photoshoot samples here.

All of my outfits and costumes will be 10% off.  You can see the Steampunk costumes here, and the Victorian Gothic section here.  If it’s something I already have on clearance, it’ll be 50% off.  The sale ends on Cyber Monday (November 26th.)

Victorian Lace Wedding Dress – Lady in Blue

One of my resolutions this year was to reduce the “waiting for pictures” dresses sitting in my stock room!  Can you believe I made this skirt and shrug in 2014?!

Victorian Lace Wedding Dress

This is one of my more practical designs.  It hitches to knee height – because dancing is important! 😉  I took all these pictures with the skirt at full length, however.  If you want to see the hitched look too, check it out on etsy.

Victorian Lace Wedding Dress Victorian Lace Wedding Dress

Do you like the hat?  It’s a new style I’m excited to add into my shop – at a customer’s suggestion.  It starts out as a big Kentucky Derby hat – but since I’m me, I must hand shape it so that it has my signature pointed front.  🙂

Victorian Lace Wedding Dress Victorian Lace Wedding Dress

The end result is more fun than historical – but I love the way it looks with my Victorian satin wedding dress.

Victorian Lace Wedding Dress

One final note – if you look closely, you can see spots on the skirt in the photos.  That’s because it started raining on us, the instant we got to the park and were ready to start taking pictures!  Lol New England is like that – the weather report will say 0% chance of rain right up to the moment the sky opens up and starts spitting out rain drops.

I was like screw it – I’m ready – this dress won’t get ruined if it gets a teensy bit of water on it – and I can re-curl the feathers on this hat.  So we took pictures quick like bunny, before the rain got too heavy for us.

Victorian Lace Wedding Dress

As always, jewelry by my sister.  This set is one of my personal favorites.  You can see it here in her shop.

Thanks for reading!

Sleeping Beauty Costume – Briar Rose

If you follow my designs, you’ve seen this skirt before.  It is the same style I made for my “Lady Enchantress” fantasy wedding dress, and for my “Dame En Rouge” fairytale wedding dress.

When I made this briar rose sleeping beauty costume, I was going for a more gothic princess type look, and I thought I would keep the corset top as simple as possible to let my new skirt design take center stage.

The back has all these pretty tucks, and it seems a shame to cover them up with a jacket.  🙂

And of course, every gothic princess needs a crown.  This gothic crown is a prototype – the final version is a bit wider, with five flowers along the top, which I find is a bit more flattering to the face.

I can custom make this dress in all sizes. If we switch out the corset for another style, I can offer a plethora of gorgeous colors, as well.

The exact dress in the photos is one of a kind.  It is posted for sale in my Etsy shop here.  The crown is also listed for sale here.

Jewelry by my sister.

Green Victorian Dress – Gothic Jewel

Green Victorian Gothic Dress

This green and black gothic wedding dress features one of my new skirt designs.

One of my goals this year has been to make more dresses with full length skirts.  I think I’ve set a new record for time spent drafting new patterns over the last few months!

My sister is modeling the dress in these photos.  She’s wearing a mini fedora bridal hat trimmed with satin ribbon and roses to match the ball gown.

I have satin ribbons to match all my satin fabrics, so if you are ordering one of my gowns, I can make this hat to match.

Do you like the beautiful jewelry in the photos?  You can find it in my sister’s etsy shop.

The one-of-a-kind dress in the pictures is listed for sale in my etsy shop here.

My Sweet 16 Sketchbook

I present this picture as proof positive that I haven’t changed much: 

Victorian Lady in Red and Black

At least, what I like hasn’t changed much!  Yes, Kristina Post is me – my maiden name in the muggle world.  I found this folder marked “Really OLD!” while I was going thru stuff – and lo and behold, it contained my artbook from 98-99, when I was only 16.

A lot of them were drawings, like the one above.  Based on my current artistic eye, I think the best one was this:

Victorian Era Hiking

And another honorable mention:

Victorian Lady in Blue Bustle Dress

But the coolest thing about this find is that it also contained a bunch of my fashion sketches from even earlier – when I first started sewing – like these:

And this one was even cooler – because I found both the sketch: 

Two Regency Ladies

And my doodles when I was thinking of how I would draft the pattern for the jacket!

Spencer Jacket Pattern Plan

I really haven’t changed much, lol.  Although I definitely design sexier things now!  All in all, I think that if 16 year old me were to meet 36 year old me, she would approve.  ^.^  And that’s kind of an awesome thing to be able to say!

Black Steampunk Dress – Sable Siren

Gothic Steampunk Dress

This black steampunk dress has been a long time coming!  I make dresses in this style fairly often by special request.   It’s my popular “Vintage Diva” bustle skirt – but with an added fluffy ruffle to bring it down to knee length.

Gothic Steampunk Dress

My sister (modeling in these photos) is pretty tall with long legs – so on most people, this gothic dress will be fully knee length.

Gothic Steampunk Dress Gothic Steampunk Dress

Do you like the lovely gothic necklace and earrings she’s wearing in these pictures?  They’re posted here and here in her Etsy shop.

Gothic Steampunk Dress

The corset she’s wearing is from a new supplier.  They are AWESOME corsets – full steel boned, uber curvy, heavy duty, and available in a plethora of styles and color combinations.  They come in all sizes, and can even be customized to measurements for unusual figures.  I’m excited to start offering them in my shop!

Gothic Steampunk Dress

This one-of-a-kind dress is listed for sale here.  And you can purchase the hat in the pictures here.

Gothic Steampunk Dress

Steampunk Costume – Perfectly Purple

Purple Steampunk Costume

I love fun and funky color combinations.  Do you?

Purple Steampunk Costume

Most people would pair this steampunk corset with a black skirt for an easy match.  But with Halloween coming soon, I’ve been making a lot of black steampunk costumes.  So I decided to bring out the bright and beautiful colors in this corset when I made the matching skirts.

Purple Steampunk Costume

This outfit can be worn without its matching bolero shrug, but I love the way how the short jacket brings the look together.

Purple Steampunk Costume

And to me, of course, no look is complete without matching hat!

Purple Steampunk Costume

I made a fedora style hat to match this look – but with a mini or full size top hat, I think it would make an epic Mad Hatter Costume.

Purple Steampunk CostumePurple Steampunk Costume

The skirt is my “Vintage Diva” pattern, but instead of wearing it with a bustle or underskirt, I put it over a fluffy vintage petticoat.

Purple Steampunk CostumePurple Steampunk Costume

Jewelry is by my sister, Vixen’s Delight.  You can purchase the dress here, and it’s matching shrug here.

Purple Steampunk Costume

Steampunk Halloween Costume – Sassy in Red

Red Steampunk Costume

Halloween 2018 is coming on fast!  So my sister and I decided it was time to hightail it to the park and get some new pictures of costume type things.

Red Steampunk Costume

This first set of pictures is me in a Steampunk Halloween costume.  I could see this look working awesomely for a Saloon girl, or a Queen of Hearts with a unique twist.

Red Steampunk Costume

I love making things that match – and this Steampunk mini top hat is no exception.  It’s decorated with the exact fabric and trim from the corset.

Red Steampunk Costume

The steampunk bustle skirt in the photos looks new, but it’s actually a slightly shorter version of the style I’m wearing in this Gothic Wedding Dress and in this Steampunk Wedding Dress.  The jackets covered up the bustle-y cuteness in my previous sets of photos.  I’m still tweaking the back design to make it perfect, but I’m very pleased with how this skirt turned out.

Red Steampunk Costume

I do believe this dress makes an awesome addition to my collection of deluxe Halloween costumes, don’t you?

Red Steampunk Costume

The jewelry i’m wearing in these photos is handmade by my sister, Vixen’s Delight.

Red Steampunk Costume

I made only two of these dresses.  If you would like to make one of them yours, you can purchase it here.

Red Steampunk Costume

Fantasy Wedding Dress – Lady Enchantress

I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again – pattern drafting is oh-so time consuming!  So when I decided to make a line of fantasy wedding dresses, I started by making new versions of my existing designs.

Fantasy Wedding Dress

Do you recognize the dress jacket in this medieval style gown?  It’s my “Victorian Vixen” jacket, plus a hood, and long elegant sleeves.

Fantasy Wedding Dress Fantasy Wedding Dress Back

I paired the jacket with my newest skirt design – inspired by a blend of Medieval, Victorian, and Rococco styles.

Fantasy Wedding Dress Fantasy Wedding Dress

When I make this Medieval wedding dress custom to measure, I’ll recommend that we switch to a single point in front on the jacket – like this one.  There are beautiful Venice lace appliques at each hip, and they are all but hidden by the front of the dress jacket.

Fantasy Wedding Dress Fantasy Wedding Dress

Do you like the forest green in the photos, or would you want this wedding dress in a different color?  I can craft it in a lot of gorgeous shades – burgundy, all-black, brown, purple, and more.

Fantasy Wedding Dress

This one-of-a-kind fairy tale wedding dress is posted for sale here.

Fantasy Wedding Jewelry

And as always, jewelry by my sister, Vixen’s Delight.

Fantasy Wedding Dress

 

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